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Beginner’s Guide to Conquering Europe’s Longest Climb in Andalusia

By Martin Atanasov

La Vuelta is upon us and, as usual, we are here, stretching our legs and trying out the local food, culture, and roads. So, what better place to get all of these than Granada? The history is abundant, the food is to die for and, well, the longest climb in Europe is right at our doorstep. And let me tell you, climbing it at nearly 40° was not a great idea, although it was merely 25°C up there. So, yeah, it was a great way to escape the hellish heat down in the city.

Hoya de la Mora or Pico del Veleta

Pico Veleta
Pico Veleta is widely known as the highest road in Europe. The 31.2-km long bike ride will definitely take a toll on your legs. © Profimedia

Everything starts in Granada. The morning coffee as well but that’s a story for another time. The entire route is about 74 km, half of which involves climbing. Now, usually, we would get to the very top at Pico del Veleta at 3,398 m but this is not for beginners. It would add another 21 km of riding, 10.5 of which are climbing off-road on a progressively deteriorating gravel path. You will have to climb another 700 m of elevation and the altitude will start affecting your performance and stamina. So, when you’ve conquered a 30 km climb until then, you might consider yourself lucky if you have any stamina left to be affected. Still, if you feel like you can do more after you reach the end of the asphalt at Hoya de la Mora and you want to test your legs, be our guest. But note that there are no trees, water or food to the top and back. Moreover, there are some sharp rocks here and there, so be careful not to burst your tyres.

The route

But today, we will focus strictly on what you can expect on the asphalt. For starters, you will elevate more than 2,000 meters on the road so don’t be fooled that this will be an easy trip. You must prepare mentally for the challenge. You will be climbing about 30 km with two short breaks on the way where it will be either flat or a short downhill. Otherwise, you will have to conquer an average gradient of about 5.5%, going up to 17%. While the steepest parts are at the start of the climb where you will constantly battle with 12%+ gradients, don’t think the rest is easy. After the 20th km, you will have a steady incline of about 8%. This may not sound too challenging but once you break the 30th km, you will start feeling every pedal stroke.

Still, the ride starts with a nice false flat for the first 9.5 km. There, you can warm up properly while getting out of Granada, Huetor Vega, and passing by Barrio de Monachil. Once you reach the small Monachil village, the road will start becoming more like a wall than a road. This will be the last village you will cross for the rest of the day. But don’t worry; there are plenty of restaurants, gas stations, and even shops along the way.

The following 7 km are arguably the hardest in the entire ride. You will climb more than a quarter of your entire elevation for the day. The gradient will constantly stay in the double digits. By the end, you will start feeling it, no matter how fresh and pumped you were at the beginning. Once you reach Camping El Purche, the road will flatten out and you will finally get some much-needed relief. There, you will get to experience the last downhill section before you reach the top, so even though it’s very short, take your time to enjoy it.

Once you get to the main road, however, the flat section ends, and you’re once again on the climb. This will continue until the very end at Hoya de la Mora, more than 17 km away at this point.

Some notable places

Along the way, there are several places you might want to stop by and enjoy. First and foremost, we need to mention the scenery. Make sure to look around while riding. Don’t look at your front tyre all the time. It’s there. Hopefully, it won’t quit before you do. The swerving road will open many majestic views, all of which are worth noticing. You may also take some pictures but you will never manage to capture the scenery in its full glory.

One place you should definitely stop for a picture is at the 2,000m altitude sign. There, a majestic view of the valley below will open and you will be able to see Granada and other small towns dotted in the fields below. It’s simply breathtaking. Plus, it’s an excellent way to catch your breath. After the El Dornajo Visitor Center, you will divert from the main road and take a smaller but far more picturesque route to the top.

On your way back, you can stop at the Alhambra. This is a beautiful and fascinating medieval complex with a gorgeous castle where you can even visit the throne room. Or you can just rest for a while in the lovely gardens filled with fountains.

When to go

The best time to get to the very top is between the start of May and the last week of October. This is typically when there is no snow at the top and you can get to the 3,398 m summit. For the easier Hoya de la Mora, you can go as early as March if there aren’t any snowfalls in February.

August is definitely the hardest month to make the trip, as temperatures in Granada often surpass 40°C. However, if you find yourself there and want to test the route, starting as early as possible is advisable. 5:30 a.m. seems like a great time to head out, as the sun will rise by the time you get out of Granada (if it’s not Ragnarok, in which case you will notice a giant wolf eating the sun. In that case, you can sleep in, it won’t get to 40 degrees ever again). Jokes aside, starting early will help you get to the fresher climate before the heats begin to choke the valley below. Also, note that there are not many trees along the way, so you won’t have the pleasure of hiding from the sun too often.

At the top, temperatures rarely surpass 23°C, so the heat won’t be such a problem after the 2,000 m mark. Still, try to reach the summit before 1 o’clock, when the sun will be the highest.

How long will the ride take

For a seasoned rider, the entire climb and back takes around 4-5 hours. Your goal should be 6-8 hours with plenty of stops and rests. Still, don’t push yourself. If you’ve started early enough, you will have enough time to finish the ride before dark.

What do you need for this ride?

The usual, really. You might think about skipping the windproof jacket, considering that the temperatures in Granada are more appropriate for a slow cooker. Still, you will climb above 2,500 m and the descent will be fast. Moreover, the top is often windy and when you stop for some rest, it’s a good idea to have something to put on.

What about water?

Two bottles will suffice you throughout the way. There are plenty of places where you can refill. Still, keep in mind that the heat will make you drink more. Furthermore, you need to stay well hydrated to avoid cramps.

Now, there are two points where you must refill regardless of how much water you have left. The first is right before El Dornajo where you take off to a serene small road with absolutely nothing. You won’t have the chance to refill until you reach Hoya De La Mora. The second one is at Hoya De La Mora if you are attacking the summit. This is very important as the ride to Pico Veleta is truly hard and you will need all the water you can get. So, be sure to refill.

And food?

Food is not a problem. You have plenty of restaurants on the way. So, whenever you feel hungry, there is a place to grab a bite in the next half an hour. The only place where you won’t be able to grab a bite is between El Dornajo Visitor Center and Hoya De La Mora. So, if you feel you need to eat before El Dornajo, there are two pretty good restaurants right before you divert from the main road. Otherwise, the Kiosko-Bar at the top offers some tasty burgers, sandwiches, and a well-deserved beer or two. The view is also very much worth waiting to grab a bite right there.

Before that, you simply have to stop at Cafetería La Abuela Serafina. True, it’s just 10 km from the start but the sweets there are out of this world and you can always use a second coffee before you start the 30 km climb to the top. So, take a few moments to enjoy the pastries. The best part is that it opens at 7:00 o’clock, so if you start your journey a bit later, at 6:30, you can be there right as the cafeteria opens.

Once you get back from the ride, you will be starving. You might want to enjoy some tapas with well-deserved beers. Well, in Granada, it’s common for bars to bring along tapas when you order a drink. You will get a different tapas with every drink and with each new refreshment, you will get a more elaborate tapas. So, if you are getting a beer anyway and you’re not that hungry, you might enjoy this treat.

Anything else?

That’s it. You’re ready to take on the longest climb in Europe. And while you are there, enjoy every moment of it. Sure, you will feel discouraged at some point but push through it. Not just because you are better than that but also because the food at Kiosko-Bar at Hoya De La Mora is truly worth the effort. And you can always brag that you reached the top of the longest climb in Europe on your social media of choice. That’s definitely worth at least 200 likes.