So, the cyclocross race is over, the anthems have faded, and your glorious steed leans against the railing like a war-torn soldier. Just looking at it hurts. Touching it? That requires serious mental fortitude. Ugh! But don’t worry—you’ll be amazed at how easily you can turn this muddy mess into a dazzling machine again if you follow the simple advice of WLC ambassador Richard Gasperotti. This guy works with young CX talents in the Czech Republic and helps develop and test BikeworkX cleaning products.
What you’ll need: bike cleaner, brush, bucket, water, polish, lube, rag (an old Nickelback T-shirt will do—rip off a piece, and voilà, instant rag!)
Pro tip: If you care about the planet, avoid paper towels. An old towel works just fine.
“For basic cleaning, you can use whatever you have at home—it’s still way better than doing nothing. But if you want better results with less effort, dedicated bike cleaners will make your life easier,” says Richard Gasperotti.
Before you start, remove anything on your bike that doesn’t love water. Although, let’s be honest, CX bikes don’t usually come with lights or GPS computers. This tip is more for gravel riders who want to give their bike some TLC. You get the idea, right?

The washing phase
The simplest home method? Dish soap and a brush. But here’s the trick: the brush should be soft, not stiff. Hard bristles can grind dirt into the paint like sandpaper. Go for a soft-bristle brush, or if you’re fancy, a bike brush. Even a fine broom from your local hardware store will do. If you’re a true perfectionist, grab a paintbrush to get into all those sneaky little nooks and crannies.
Now comes the part you’ve been waiting for—the wet phase! Fill a bucket with water, add soap, and mix it up (“Stirred, not shaken,” as James Bond would not say, but we will). Dip your brush in, get a nice foamy lather going, and slather that stuff all over the bike. No need to overthink it—just go wild. Splash, scrub, dunk! The more water, the better, especially if the mud has started drying. You can dump the whole bucket over the bike or use a hose, but opt for a gentle spray instead of a high-pressure jet, which can force dirt into moving parts, turning your drivetrain into a silent but deadly grinding machine.
“For best results, go with a dedicated cleaner like BikeworkX Greener Cleaner,” Richard recommends. It sprays on as active foam, seeps into every crevice, and lifts dirt to the surface like magic.
Let the soapy water (or active foam) work its magic for about five minutes just before…
Scrub time!
After a few unexciting minutes, return with your trusty brush. Start with the saddle, handlebars, and frame. Then move on to the wheels. Lift the front wheel, spin it, and scrub as you go. Finish with the rear wheel, chain, and cassette—because let’s be real, you don’t want to smear greasy chain gunk all over your freshly cleaned frame, right? Scrub the cassette counterclockwise so it rotates under the brush’s pressure, ensuring every tooth gets a deep clean.
Once done, grab a dry rag and wipe everything down. You’ll be surprised at how much dirt the rag still picks up! This step is crucial for that fresh, clean look.
For the derailleur pulleys, spin the cranks while cleaning to keep everything moving smoothly. No one likes a crunchy drivetrain.
The finishing touches
Once the bike is completely dry, it’s time for polish. “It’s not just about looks,” Richard explains. “A good polish creates a protective layer that repels dirt, making your next wash way easier.”
Last but not least—lube the chain! Avoid multi-purpose lubes and go for something made specifically for bikes. For extreme conditions (a.k.a. cyclocross hell), use a two-component lube like BikeworkX Chain Star Extreme. It’s a mix of grease and solvent, meaning it penetrates deep into the chain links, and once the solvent evaporates, it leaves behind a protective layer that lasts up to 300 km.
Shake the container well before applying to ensure the two components mix properly. Apply to a clean, dry chain, let it settle, and then wipe off the excess with a rag. And don’t hold back—your chain should be lubricated inside, not dripping wet on the outside, where it would just attract more dirt. Done! If you followed these steps, your CX bike should now be gleaming, race-ready, and prepared for its next mud-filled adventure. Now go get it dirty again!