Bike fit
I never considered paying for a bike fit. I didn’t think I needed one. Sure, on longer rides my hands would hurt, my traps would tighten, and my lower back would ache, but I assumed that was just because I wasn’t riding regularly enough.
Then it dawned on me: if I’m about to ride more than double my longest distance so far, those little niggles could turn into real problems. So, I booked a bike fit.
It was an eye-opening experience. It turned out my saddle was too low, and my handlebars needed to be closer and higher. On paper, these were only small changes, a few centimetres here and there, but the difference was revolutionary.
Before, I’d often hold the tops or the corners of the bars, only putting my hands on the brakes when needed. Not only is that unsafe, but it’s also a clear sign I was too stretched out. After the fit, I felt comfortable riding on the hoods, hands naturally resting on the brakes, and my whole position felt more relaxed and stable.
A new saddle
Another revelation came with the saddle. I had been riding the same racing saddle from 2015, with no cut-out in the middle. It forced me to arch my lower back to avoid uncomfortable pressure in my crotch.
The bike fitter suggested a modern saddle with a central cut-out. Instant game-changer. I could suddenly sit into the saddle, keep a neutral spine, and actually relax.
Combined with the bike fit, it felt like a whole new bike and a whole new, more comfortable me.
The right clothes
If you’re riding for an hour or two, you can get away with almost anything. But on an all-day ride, clothing quality matters.
Here’s where I decided to spend extra:
- High-quality bib shorts (worn without underwear, which I didn’t know at first).
- A good jersey that fits snugly, doesn’t move around on me, doesn’t flap in the wind, and is really breathable in the right places.
- Quality cycling gloves with foam to cushion road vibrations that add up over hours.
These small things all reduce drag and discomfort, and after 8+ hours in the saddle, that’s no longer a luxury, it’s a necessity.
Repair kit
I always carry an inner tube and basic tools to fix a flat. On short city rides, it’s not critical, but when you’re planning a big challenge and could be hours from the nearest train or bike shop, it’s non-negotiable. I didn’t want a simple flat, or even two, to ruin my ride if everything else was going well.
For the century, I’m planning to pack:
- 2× spare TPU tubes – yes, they’re five times the price of butyl, but they’re smaller, lighter, and even improve rolling resistance.
- A compact pump – not fun to use, but light, small and reliable.
- Tyre levers – for getting stubborn tyres off and on.
- A multitool – mine has common hex keys plus Phillips and flat screwdrivers.
Storage
Of course, spares and food need to go somewhere. For me, that meant investing in Tailfin bags, a top tube bag and a frame bag.
- They hold their shape even when stuffed.
- They stay in place without screws (my frame doesn’t have top tube mounts).
- They’re waterproof.
- And they’re easy to open one-handed while riding.
They’re not cheap, but they’re premium for a reason. If you do have frame mounts, even cheaper bags will hold well.
The other option is a small cycling backpack. It’s the cheapest and has the biggest capacity. But for a climbing-heavy ride on a sunny day, I didn’t want to be sweat on my back for hours on end. Plus, I’ve grown to love the easy one-handed access to food that a top tube bag gives me, even on shorter rides.
A bike computer
This one is almost embarrassing. I’d never owned a bike computer until very recently. When I got into triathlon years ago, I used a Garmin watch, and it felt enough. Why buy another gadget just for the bike?
That worked fine until I started planning longer rides into unfamiliar areas. Constantly checking my phone for directions was clunky and drained the battery. Plus, the number of wrong turns I took and had to backtrack was painful. A 160 km ride with full navigation would have been a nightmare.
So, I finally gave in and bought a Garmin Edge. Now, I can’t imagine riding without it. It makes everything more convenient:
- I know exactly where I’m going. No more wrong turns or stopping to check the map.
- It shows real-time wind direction with a custom data field installed.
- I can check the time of day with ease.
- With a power meter connected, I can run structured workouts and try to keep an eye on my cadence in real time.
- I also get notified about upcoming climbs and I can see live Strava segments if I feel competitive.
- And I don’t have to worry about battery life. My phone stays in the pocket and my Garmin watch can now just focus on broadcasting my heartrate to the Edge.
It gives me as little or as much data as I want, and it simply makes long rides less stressful and safer.
A bike radar
Talking about safe, this was another discovery I wish I’d made sooner. I didn’t even know these existed until recently, but now I wouldn’t head out on a long road ride without one.
It’s simple: a rear-facing radar detects cars coming from behind (it has a range of 140 meters) and shows how many and how fast they’re approaching. This is another advantage of the Garmin Edge, I see these visualized on the screen. Often, I know a car is there before I hear it. That gives me time to adjust my position, prepare mentally, and feel in control.
On cycle paths, you don’t need it. But on open roads, especially when you’re fatigued, it’s a no-brainer for safety.
Do you really need all of this?
No, you don’t need every shiny piece of kit to ride 100 miles. But you do need to make smart choices about comfort, safety, and practicality. For me, the game-changers were the bike fit, saddle, and navigation/safety tech. For you, it may be other things, or none of these things. But knowing what’s available can help you make an informed decision.
