So, let’s talk coffees, bakeries and all the places we sugar enthusiasts will enjoy visiting while La Vuelta is going through Andalusia.
The 5 stages in the south
This year, La Vuelta will take its time crossing some of the most beautiful places in Andalusia. Now, to say this place is rich in history is an understatement but today, we won’t talk all that much about culture. We will focus on what we will put in our stomachs. And oh boy, does Andalusia offer a great choice in some tasty snacks and 5-star cafes along the La Vuelta route.
Stage 5
Stage 5 of this year’s Tour of Spain will take place between Fuente del Maestre and Sevilla. The route itself is not too challenging and although it stretches 177 km, even intermediate riders can cover it without too much trouble (given enough time). And, well, considering we will be stopping at some delicious places, time is what we need the most.
First, let’s talk about the start. Fuente del Maestre is a small, mostly unremarkable town north of Andalusia. However, even here, we can find one truly spectacular coffee shop where we can fill our batteries for the upcoming ride. Sure, we will follow the pros but we still need some calories to burn, right? So, before you set sail to Seville, get a quick coffee and some snacks from Circulo Obrero Fontanes. This small establishment is right on the town square across from the church. It’s hard to miss. The cakes are delicious, the atmosphere is serene, and there is ample space to keep your bike close.
Now, let’s get going. Get ready for the long run as our next stop will be Sevilla. There, you can enjoy a plethora of top-notch restaurants, coffee shops, and eateries. However, since we are talking sweets and beans, we can’t ignore the obvious favourites – Virgen Coffee and MUY Coffee.
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Virgen Coffee is situated right next to Mercado de la Encarnacion and is every coffee enthusiast’s dream. They always have the highest-quality beans and the friendly Pedro will greet you with a smile. To top it all off, each coffee comes with a dash of love as the guy obviously loves his job.
If you want, however, to enjoy some peace and quiet away from all the tourists, MUY Coffee is just the place. It’s a bit outside the city centre but hey, you’re on a bike and you’ll be there in 5 minutes. The baristas there offer excellent speciality coffees and although the pastries are not something to die for, it’s quite worth visiting for the coffee itself. Many locals claim this is the best coffee in Seville. If it’s true, I don’t know. I haven’t been to all Sevilla coffee shops, you know.
While getting there, however, don’t follow your instincts. The streets are really messed up, and your instincts will get you lost. Use your GPS or Google Maps to get there. It will save you a lot of time.
Stage 6
The second Andalusia stage will start about 50 km south of Seville near the seaside. The host is a small but picturesque town called Jerez de la Frontera. Here, you will find one of the best coffee shops in the entire area. Enzo Coffee offers some of the best coffee south of Sevilla and to put the icing on the cake – it offers homemade cakes and sweets. Now, that’s what I call a great starting point. Yes, for cycling as well but let’s not ruin this breakfast. Hopefully, you don’t mind stuffing yourself full of sweets in the morning as the sugary goodness in this joint is to die for. Once you’ve stuffed yourself one muffin short of a diabetic coma, it’s time to start pedalling. The peloton won’t follow itself… Well, it will but that’s not the point.
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Our next stop is 82 km into the route in the small but charming town of Grazalema. Here, we will stop at Cafeteria-Pasteleria Rotacapa for some coffee, beer or both. What makes this joint so special is the owner who is among the friendliest people you will ever see. The coffee is good and chances are you will see many other cyclists having lunch there. The food is great but since we are talking sweets, definitely try the homemade cheesecake. It’s made with goat cheese, unlike anything you’ve ever tried. Not everyone likes it as goat cheese adds a specific flavour but you should try it regardless.
Hopefully, you have left some space as our next stop is just some 30 km away. We will stop in Ronda but unlike most others, we will skip the city centre and go straight to Cafeteria-Mercado Atipico. This charming place is simply a must-visit. While munching on your next piece of cake, you might as well look around the cafe’s shopping corner. There, you can find some awesome souvenirs. Just keep in mind you’re on the bike so don’t go too crazy. Oh, and the place is perfect for those weirdos (like myself) who prefer tea over coffee.
Now that you’ve gained at least 4 kg from overeating, it’s time to get some cycling done. We’ve got another 65 km for the day and we won’t stop for the next 50 km. So you have enough time to burn all the sugar you just consumed. And you better push yourself because once we get to Cafeteria Pasteleria Bonela in Casarabonela, we have a lot of cakes to taste once again. The owners are some of the sweetest people you will ever meet and they will do everything to accommodate your desires. You will feel like a God there, especially when you taste their delicious coffee and homemade sweets. The carrot cake was my personal favourite, mostly because it was not that sweet. But there are ample choices and you simply can’t make a wrong one.
The final 15 km are uneventful and while there are some places you can have a nice dinner in Yunquera where the sixth stage will finish, let’s move on to stage 7.
Stage 7
Hopefully, you are full from yesterday since today we will take the first 20 km on an empty stomach. Sure, you can try one of the several coffee shops in Archidona where the 7th stage will commence but the only place that really deserves our attention – The Garden – has been closed for quite some time.
20 km from the start, we will cross a beautiful small city called Antequera and while you will be tempted to get into one of the many coffee shops along the way, hold your horses. At the edge of the city centre, there is the La Antequerana. This cosy place has some pretty good coffee, although I doubt you’ll tell your friends or Instagram followers about the taste. On the other hand, the atmosphere and the sweets are outstanding. The Croissants, the cakes, and all the sweets are all made with extra care.
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If you are after a more substantial meal, El Jardin is the perfect place for a whole breakfast. It offers an ample choice of sweet and salty dishes and, to be honest, is much more convenient for cyclists. The pancakes are a great choice if you are after some sweet dishes but otherwise, I’d go for a beer with a burger or a simple yoghurt with fruits.
Hopefully, you’ve filled your batteries as our next stop is 92 kilometres away. Yes, we will ride for about 4 hours straight, so you better take your fill.
Today, we are having lunch in Montila or, more accurately, Cafeteria los Jacintos. The best part is that it’s right on our route. More importantly, it’s the perfect place to settle in to watch the peloton pass by. So grab a glass of local beer and some tapas, montaditos or other local dishes and enjoy the garden. The only downside is that it’s right next to a playground but hey, the children are our future. It’s better to see them on the playground than playing with your bike, right?
After lunch, we will go straight to Cordoba. No overeating with sweets today, I’m afraid. Well, at least not until we get to Cordoba. There you must try the Aromas Cafe Bar. This is a place every single person in the world should visit. The focus here is still not on sweets but after yesterday, that’s hardly a bad thing. Today, we will fill up on tapas, sandwiches, and great beer and wine. So, drink up. Tomorrow, we will munch on sweets once again.
Stage 8
Stage 8 will take place outside the big cities so today, we will have the golden opportunity to enjoy some serene views and local coffee shops and bakeries. The stage starts at Ubeda and if you’re still stuffed from last night, you should skip breakfast altogether. I know, I know, you need your fill before the ride. Well, at least take your bike to ¡Oh La La¡ Café that’s basically at the edge of the town. It’s a charming little joint with a quiet atmosphere and some tasty toasts and croissants. You can get a decent coffee as well along with some pretty good sweets.
However, if you can wait for just a bit, we’d suggest going straight to Villanueva del Arzobispo where you will find two of the most outstanding coffee shops in the entire area. The small town is just 40 km away, which, true, will take around 2 hours to get there. Skipping everything and going straight to Cafe Larios is probably the best thing you will ever do. Forget about marriage and children. This café right here will be the highlight of your life. No matter what you get, you will fall in love with the place. You might even ask for the cook’s hand in marriage. The cheesecake… Oh, my God, the cheesecake. Yes, it’s that good. My mouth is watering, just writing about its melted glory.
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If you’ve offended the Gods and the café isn’t open for some reason or there are no free spots, you can also go for Cafeteria Pasteleria Tudela. The cakes and coffee are to die for; you will lick your cup and plate after you finish. But for heaven’s sake, just get to Cafe Larios. It’s one of those places people simply have to visit.
The only downside to this café is that anything afterwards will be underwhelming. Sure, you will burn everything you’ve eaten in the following 80 or so km until you reach Burunchel for lunch but still, the memory will keep you pedalling all the way to Panaderia Burunchel. There, it’s once again time to fill your fuel tank with some food. Panaderia Burunchel is a local bakery but there you will find some pretty good pastries so don’t hesitate to fill your stomach once again.
Or if you’re still stuffed from Cafe Larios, just go straight to Cazorla and Tito Boli Cafe where you will drink your coffee and eat your cake at a table with the most beautiful view you can imagine. The best part is there is ample space to park your bike and enjoy the view for as long as you wish. After all, tomorrow will be your last day in Andalusia following La Vuelta. You didn’t forget you were actually following the peloton, now, did you?
Stage 9
The final stage in Andalusia will take us on a 178.5 km journey from the seaside to the legendary city of Granada. Motril, where the stage will start, has ample opportunities to start your day with a fresh and fulfilling cup of coffee and about 1,000 calories of sugary goodness. Cafetotal is by far the nicest of the bunch. Many would tell you they have the best coffee in town and, to be honest, that’s not too far off the truth. The only downside is the prices, which are a bit higher than average. But come on, the great coffee deserves an extra penny on top. Especially when some delicious cake accompanies it. Well, the sweets are actually nothing special, so if you had your fill from the last few days, skipping them won’t be the end of the world.
But that’s still just the start. So, let’s get cycling. Along the way, there are several pretty good joints where you can stop, have something sweet on foot, and carry on. After all, we have 180 km today so we can’t stop at every good place along the way. So, if you feel hungry, Croissantería y Panadería LAURA in Vélez de Benaudalla, Café Caribe in Orgiva, La Brújula in Lanjarón, or Pastelería Cafetería Heladería Flamboyant in Durcal will satisfy your needs entirely. They are outstanding joints with tasty snacks and pretty good coffee.
Finally, we are at the end of our tour of Andalusia. And if you think we are done with eating, well, we have bad news. Granada has some excellent coffee bars and restaurants, so tonight, you will get stuffed like a turkey before Christmas. Now, the best way to find the perfect place for you in Granada is to ask the locals. But among our favourite cafes, I could mention Magia Arabica, which offers some of the best coffee you will ever drink. The sweets are meh but the coffee is really something you should try.
You can also try Despiertoo Specialty Coffee or Rawa Speciality Coffee. Both serve great hot drinks but the latter one is a bit outside of the city centre, so if you prefer some peace and quiet, you should skip the main streets and go to Rawa.
Despiertoo, on the other hand, is in the tourist centre so it’s not the best place to ride your bike. On the other hand, it’s one place where the sweets are worth trying, although the variety is not that big.
If your sweet tooth is still bugging you, we suggest Cafecito en Graná. There, you will find a selection of A-class pastries and sweets. Some of the best cookies in the world are baked right here. But that’s not all – brownies, carrot cakes, and other sugary delights will satisfy everyone’s needs no matter their preferences.
You are ready to follow La Vuelta
Now that you know where to grab some coffee and sweet, sweet cake, it’s time to pack your bags and bike and head over to Andalusia. All these sweets won’t eat themselves, you know. So, grab your bike, burn 4-5 thousand calories a day and who knows, you may even burn all these sweets before the end of your trip.
