{"id":142960,"date":"2016-09-28T08:14:36","date_gmt":"2016-09-28T08:14:36","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.welovecycling.com\/wide\/?p=142960"},"modified":"2016-09-28T08:15:10","modified_gmt":"2016-09-28T08:15:10","slug":"blog-travelling-world-hera-van-willick-getting-used-wilderness","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.welovecycling.com\/wide\/2016\/09\/28\/blog-travelling-world-hera-van-willick-getting-used-wilderness\/","title":{"rendered":"BLOG: Travelling the World with Hera van Willick: Getting Used to Wilderness"},"content":{"rendered":"

Right at the moment when I open my laptop to get started on my new blogpost the emergency alarm rings. My heartbeat trips for a moment while my brain immediately starts working and determining my position. What\u2019s the procedure? Where can I go?\u00a0Half a minute at most tell the announcement follows that it\u2019s just a \u2018drill\u2019 for the staff. Well, that\u2019s great! Can\u2019t they announce that beforehand?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Had I been a nervous person that could\u2019ve caused me a heart attack.\u00a0My heart retrieves it\u2019s natural beat and I can get started on my blogpost, while behind me three men are dressing up in fireproof outfits, including gasmasks and oxygen.\u00a0A suitable moment for a drill I guess. An almost empty ferry at the end of the tourist season.<\/p>\n

\"Emergency
Emergency drill<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I\u2019m on a boat. In Whitehorse I decided to take the ferry from Haines<\/strong> to Prince Rupert <\/strong>instead of biking the Cassiar highway. It was recommended to me by several people because of its amazing scenery, while the Cassiar would be \u2018more of the same\u2019. I didn\u2019t like the sum of money I had to lay down for it but after all I\u2019m glad I decided to do it. 40 hours on a boat. Two hours and a night. Yesterday it rained all day and I couldn\u2019t see anything due to the thick fog. Today the weather cleared and ever since early this morning I\u2019ve been watching the many islands going by. We make a few stops on the way and every time a few people get off. This boat rides the \u2018Marine highway<\/strong>\u2019. A route from Skagway (Alaska) via Haines (that\u2019s where I got on) and Juneau (Alaska\u2019s capital city) to Prince Rupert (Canada).<\/p>\n

\"OLYMPUS<\/p>\n

But first let\u2019s go back to the far north of Canada, from where I posted my previous blog. Dawson city!\u00a0<\/strong>The morning I got on my bike there it was -10C. De coldest morning I\u2019ve had so far. I dug up my mittens from my panniers and started the ride wearing my down jacket. Which was, as expected, way to hot already after only a few kilometers, but stripping down warm layers before even getting on the bike is a torment I don\u2019t always want to endure.<\/p>\n

In the nights the temperature plumps below freezing, but I have enough layers of clothing with me to endure more extreme cold. Even now I make a big leap south with this ferry there\u2019s a big chance that I\u2019ll catch the first snow soon.\u00a0On the way from Banff to Vancouver, a road that I\u2019ll cycle in about a month from now, there\u2019s been some snow already.<\/p>\n

The ride from Dawson City<\/strong> to Whitehorse <\/strong>(the biggest town in the Yukon) took me five days. Another five days in the wild. Just one village on the way that counted over 100 inhabitants. I can tell that I\u2019m getting used to it. I don\u2019t worry or wonder anymore where I\u2019ll spend the nights or how I\u2019ll find food. I stock up on food and I just bike till I feel it\u2019s been enough for the day and I\u2019ve found a good place to pitch my tent. Sometimes that\u2019s beside a river on the edge of a village, sometimes it\u2019s in forest far away from any civilization and sometimes it\u2019s on a (closed) campsite where I\u2019ll occasionally meet other campers. The days are getting shorter rapidly and after I\u2019ve made a fire, cooked, cleaned the dishes and put my food far away from my tent the sun sets and it\u2019s cooling down. Often I\u2019m in my sleepingbag around 20:30 with my headlight on reading a book. Almost every night of camping in the wild is like that and even so on these night I never think \u2018I wish I were somewhere else\u2019 <\/em>or \u2018I wish I wasn\u2019t alone\u2019<\/em>. On the one side \u2018it is what it is\u2019 and on the other side I enjoy it intensely.<\/p>\n

\"OLYMPUS<\/p>\n

\"All
All the trees turn yellow in fall in the north<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Very
Very local rain, luckily not where I am.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I\u2019m getting used to the wilderness. To the sound of the forest, the squirrels, the moose, the wind in the trees. Even the plashing sound of a bear catching fish in the river I can listen to from my tent feeling relaxed. Knowing that my food is far away from my tent and a bear is not interested in a foodless cyclist in a tent I close my eyes feeling peaceful every night.<\/p>\n

On the way to Whitehorse I saw a black bear near the road for the first time. When I noticed him I was already passing him. With his new black shiny fur, he was standing there, about 40 meters from me, watching how I passed by. He spotted me but he didn\u2019t change his behavior (a good sign). I thought it\u2019d be best not to change my behavior either and I (apparently) calmly kept riding past him. When I turned around to see what he was up too he started crossing the road when I had passed him by a broad distance.<\/p>\n

What does raise my heartbeat is when in the night car headlights are shining straight at my tent and I hear the engine of a truck right beside me. Something that happens rarely and the times it does there was no need to panic. It was just good people minding their own business.<\/p>\n

After almost four months in remote Iceland, Alaska and Canada<\/strong> I can hardly imagine what it\u2019ll be like to cycle down the westcoast of the United States soon (the \u2018lower 48\u2019 as they call them here, because it\u2019s the more southern 48 states, but also jokingly referring to them as \u2018inferior\u2019 by calling the the \u2018lower\u2019). A region where I can find food every day, a place for wildcamping will be harder to find than a campsite and where there\u2019ll be more people than trees.<\/p>\n

\"Not
Not an unusual sight in Yukon this time off the year<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Now that I\u2019ve cycled around here for a couple of months several people recently asked me how I\u2019m liking it all together and if it is what I hoped and aimed for. Also for me that\u2019s something that I every now and then evaluate: \u2018is it right?\u2019<\/strong><\/p>\n

YES, it\u2019s right.<\/strong> Though that doesn\u2019t mean that every day is filled with the sunshine and laughter, but that\u2019s also not what I was aiming for. The most important part is how it feels. I wanted to live my life on my bicycle, feel that wherever I go I\u2019m home and that the world is a playground for me to explore. All those things are right.<\/p>\n

Fact that I\u2019ve looked forward to it for a year, my \u2018goal\u2019 clear in sight, made me very sensitive for the result.<\/p>\n

I feel FREE!<\/strong><\/p>\n

Free to do or leave and to go where I want and when I want to go. I bike when I want to bike, as long or short as I want. I respond to anything that crosses my path or draws my attention. I won\u2019t set any records and neither will I impress people with my average speed. And even though that has never been my goal, I have to remind myself every now and then that it really doesn\u2019t matter.<\/p>\n

My only goal is \u2018happiness\u2019 and everything I do is a brick to build that; lots of cycling, meeting people, days of relaxing, taking a boat ride, camping.<\/p>\n

That everything is about my own \u2018happiness\u2019 may sound egocentric. But that happiness also depends on my interaction with other people; making a cake for my hosts, contact with my family and friends, inspire or entertain people with my blog, raise awareness about suicide. All those things I take on with both hands, which makes that even though I\u2019m travelling I\u2019m sometimes short on time to get everything done that I want to do, or should do (like bike maintenance and stretching) to be able to keep doing what I want to do.<\/p>\n

\"Steve,
Steve, owner of the Braeburn lodge, just offered me a shower in the middle of a bikeway. Accepted of course!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

As you might\u2019ve sensed before, the \u2018destination\u2019 is not all I hoped it\u2019d be. I always thought that nature was the most important ingredient in my travels, people and culture would come next. But now I\u2019m in north America I feel what it\u2019s like to travel in a places that lacks culture. There\u2019s the history and culture of the native people, but they live secluded in villages not on the road system and away from the western civilization.<\/p>\n

Like with many things that are always there \u2018culture\u2019 had become natural to me and I didn\u2019t miss it until now it\u2019s not there. Though I have to say that with getting to Canada, things seem to be looking up.<\/p>\n

I can long back for the churches in France, the cobblestone alleys in Italy, the countryside of Switzerland, the pole houses of Laos, the temples of Thailand, the chapatti of Malaysia, even the hardness of the Chinese and the disgusting fermented horse milk of Kyrgyzstan.<\/p>\n

The amazing experience of travelling and getting comfortable in the wilderness make up enough for the lack of culture though.<\/p>\n

\"Wilderness
Wilderness between Haines Junction and Haines.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Camping
Camping at beautiful Fox lake<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"..on
..on a closed down campsite under a shelter<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

From Whitehorse I biked through Haines Junction<\/strong> to Haines<\/strong>. That second part was supposed to have some amazing scenery. One of the most beautiful roads of Alaska and west Canada, I\u2019d been told. The first two days were very beautiful indeed. The second day I knew exactly how far I\u2019d ride, to KM 127. A fellow cyclist told me that there was a uninhabited cabin there that was left there to make a haven for (stranded) travelers. From the moment I left Haines Junction I\u2019d hardly seen any cultivation but at KM 127 it was there indeed, in the \u2018middle of nowhere\u2019, a cabin, impossible to miss. An old small cabin with a view on the glacier. Inside was a guestbook with mostly thank you notes from cyclists. The furniture was old a partly broken but even so it made a little palace for that evening.<\/p>\n

\"My
My own cabin for the night<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Old
Old but great<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\"OLYMPUS<\/p>\n

The third day started in a thick layer of fog with no more view then about 20 meters. The full morning and a part of the afternoon I biked in that thick fog, while the beautiful mountains and glaciers passed by me unseen. The knowledge that there were many bears active in that region at the time make me a bit uncomfortable and I once more let my \u2018bearbell\u2019 ring out loud on my handlebar bag. After a pass of over 1000m I descended out of the fog, towards the Canadian-Alaskan border.<\/p>\n

\"Very
Very foggy on the road<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"A
A little bit of a view on a mountain<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

So now I\u2019m on a ferry. Too bad it started raining again this afternoon and fog is blocking the view again. Nonetheless it was a beautiful ride. The amount of houses on the shores of the islands surprised me. Islands that are only served by ferries every now and then and of which the people for transport mainly depend on their own boats and water planes. The number of people who want to live far away from the cultivated, \u2018civilized\u2019 world and seek their refuge on an island of the Alaskan coast is many times higher than I expected.<\/p>\n

Tonight at 2:15 we arrive in Prince Rupert. I would\u2019ve preferred to spend another night on the boat instead of go looking for a campspot at 2:15 in the night in a \u2018city\u2019. But \u2018it is what it is\u2019. No sunshine and laughter for just a moment but (with retroactivity) a little sacrifice to make this boat ride possible.<\/p>\n

\"Stop
Stop in Ketchikan on the way to Prince Rupert<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"A
A boat like ours<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

From Prince Rupert my ride starts on the Yellowhead highway<\/strong> towards the Canadian rockies<\/strong>. I\u2019m looking forward to reaching Jasper<\/strong> and riding the \u2018famous\u2019 Icefields Parkway<\/strong> from there, a road that is known as (maybe even) the most beautiful road of Canada. I expect that after that I\u2019ll slowly be getting ready to leave the wilderness behind a bit and enter a bit of civilization.<\/p>\n

Alright, now it\u2019s time to catch a few hours of rest before I leave this boat and enter Britisch Columbia. Starting in the city of rain(bows)!\u00a0Prince Rupert get 2,5 meter of rain each year! Two out of three days it rains. And the forecast for the next few\u2026it\u2019s not good. I\u2019m getting my rain gear out!<\/p>\n

Well, a new province full of surprises and new adventures!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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