{"id":142639,"date":"2016-09-09T12:41:52","date_gmt":"2016-09-09T12:41:52","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.welovecycling.com\/wide\/?p=142639"},"modified":"2016-09-09T12:42:31","modified_gmt":"2016-09-09T12:42:31","slug":"blog-travelling-world-hera-van-willick-saying-goodbye-alaska","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.welovecycling.com\/wide\/2016\/09\/09\/blog-travelling-world-hera-van-willick-saying-goodbye-alaska\/","title":{"rendered":"Blog: Travelling the World with Hera van Willick: \u2018SAYING GOODBYE TO ALASKA\u2019"},"content":{"rendered":"

About 50 meters before the border was a nice viewing point. I just noticed a sign saying the border closes at 9pm instead of 6pm as remembered to have read somewhere. So I would be fine stopping here even at 5:50pm and look back on Alaska before I traded it for Canada. More than 2 months, I\u2019ve never stayed that long in a country before.<\/strong>
\n<\/p>\n

The vast wilderness from the Arctic coast all the way to Anchorage that overwhelmed and scared me as I arrived by airplane, I defied by bicycle.<\/p>\n

Several roads I\u2019ve even travelled twice. Some routes were breathtakingly beautiful and epic, others even boring at times. In the cities, Anchorage and Fairbanks, I felt lost and out of place surrounded by the many big cars, the fastfood restaurants, the enormous supermarkets, strong American accents, homeless people, drunk native people, loud churches and fat Americans. But towns like Glennallen, Delta Junction and Tok<\/strong>, consisting of not much more than a few houses, a supermarket, library, post office, gas station etc serving the spread out community in the area, made pleasant jaunts back into civilization.<\/p>\n

\"Tok
Tok seen from the air<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

How different it is to cycle here than in (eastern) Europe or Asia. Since everybody speaks English there\u2019s no language barrier and I\u2019m socially outlawed. There for everybody to address and you can be sure that is taken advantage of. Sometimes I can hardly take two bites of my lunch or type a full sentence because people keep me talking.<\/p>\n

The question \u2018How many miles?\u2019 <\/strong>that\u2019s being asked at every occasion and yelled at me from car windows has started to annoy me big time. \u2018WHAT DOES IT MATTER?!\u2019<\/strong> I\u2019d like to yell back at times.\u00a0\u2018How many miles a day?\u2019<\/strong> As if my answer really matters. As if those grown-together-with-their-driver-seat-Americans have any idea what riding 40 or 80 miles on a heavy loaded bicycle means.\u00a0General, fast (dis)interest. They want something \u2018quick and fast\u2019 without having to break or think and quantitative and competitive questions are obviously at the tip of the tongue.\u00a0\u2018The more the better\u2019 seems to apply to pretty much anything.<\/p>\n

America is intense!<\/strong><\/p>\n

But OF COURSE this medal also has a shiny side!I\u2019ve met some amazing people here. People with genuine interest whose great hospitality and helpfulness have pleasantly surprised me!\u00a0After some very nice days with a hospitable and interesting community in Fairbanks I biked to Tok, a junction town from where two different roads lead to Canada. I was going to be a guest with a 70 year old man named Chip.\u00a0He would fly out to his camp the next morning and asked me if I was interested to take a few days \u2018off\u2019 and come along. A camp in wilderness, only to be reached by airplane, my own cabin, a kitchen, sauna and even (satellite) Wi-Fi. That was an offer I impossible to resist.<\/p>\n

\"The
The kitchen and terrace at the camp<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"The
The camp seen from the airplane<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The camp is only a few km from the Canadian border. Chip, who is not actively mining anymore, now services the neighboring camp with material, repairs and advice. He has geologists over to check out the rock every now and then and just enjoys his time out there in the wilderness. He took me out on a ride on the four-wheeler to the mining camp and a mountaintop in Canada (yes, illegally crossing the border) and we picked blueberries, shot Ptarmigans, plucked, cooked and ate them, split wood and I spend a lot of time reading and writing. 5 days and nights gone from civilization, even the idea of \u2018daily life\u2019 going on somewhere out there became hard to comprehend. The only thing that reminded me daily of the big supermarkets, factories and milliards of working people out there was the prepacked supermarket food that was stocked in the kitchen. No matter how pure and pristine it felt up there I couldn\u2019t fool myself. Almost everything out there originated from \u2018modern civilization\u2019. To really ban out civilization and welfare you have much longer ways to go.<\/p>\n

\"Chip
Chip baking (freshly picked) blueberry pancakes<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"A
A whole lot of mud called \u2018goldmine\u2019<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Riding
Riding up to a mountain in Canada on the four-wheeler<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Splitting
Splitting wood turned out to be quite exhausting<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I very much enjoyed the days in simplicity and peace, but after a few days my legs started to look forward to getting back on the bicycle. I had one last \u2018detour\u2019 planned, the Tok cut-off. A road in the exact opposite direction from where I\u2019d had to go to get to Canada. This road was supposedly beautiful and at the other end of it I would meet up with two Warmshowers hosts I\u2019d stayed with before.<\/p>\n

This far away from family and friends, both physically and mentally, the contact with people I meet on the road becomes of great value. They only know me as the person I am here and now, a Hera that I let manifest as best as I can through my blogs, but only they meet face to face. Simply because other parts of my personality get activated when I\u2019m on the road.\u00a0To not feel lonely, you don\u2019t just have to see other people around you but all the more be seen by other people. And that\u2019s why it was so nice to meet up again with my host from Knik river, with whom I can talk for hours and hours about stuff that actually matters (to me).. Like drinking from a energizing and inspirational source and attempt to store a few liters like a camel to last till the next oasis.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"Lots
Lots of beautiful yellow and green along the Tok cut-off<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Beautiful
Beautiful views on mountains and glaciers<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Riding the Tok cut-off<\/strong> was wonderful indeed. Thanks to the tailwinds and leaving a big part of my luggage in Tok I was flying down the road and biked the 230km in two instead of three days. The first night I camped at the Copper river, where the moose were trampling around my tent in the evening and morning and crossing the fast streaming river. The second night I camp hidden behind the library in Glennallen. Before closing I thoroughly washed myself in the restrooms and later the evening I got in my sleeping bag all clean and with Wi-Fi. Every day and night are different when I\u2019m on the road. I zigzag on my own track through and around the \u2018daily life\u2019 and every now and then go with its flow.<\/p>\n

\"Cooking
Cooking breakfast and reading at the library<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

After having marked almost the full road system of Alaska with my tires it was time to really REALLY head for Canada. Maybe more because of the dropping temperatures than because I was \u2018done\u2019 with Alaska. I haven\u2019t explored the south yet. And what about all the new possibilities and routes to bike when the rivers freeze and snow covers the land?\u00a0I guess I\u2019ll have to come back for that some other time.<\/p>\n

After getting a ride back to Tok I got back on my bicycle, the Taylor highway<\/strong>, on my way to the Top of the World highway<\/strong> and the most northern border crossing to Canada. I was only 30km in when a pickup truck slowed down next to me. A man and his two teenage daughters offered me some cookies and a place for the night, if I would make it to \u2018mile 58\u2019 that day. No way! That would make it a 120km day ride and I got only started at noon. \u2018Well, we can just put the bike in the truck and get you over a few hills?\u2019 Easy peasy. About 30km down the road they dropped me and at the end of the afternoon I reached \u2018mile 58\u2019. A windy gravel road led to Jims \u2018summer\u2019cabin where he was staying with his daughters Maddy and Faith.<\/p>\n

I was spoiled with a great meal and ice for dessert, the girls taught me how to play poker and Jim asked questions about my travels being very interested and admiring. He called me something which seemed very unusual to me, and to many I guess. He called me a \u2018role model\u2019<\/strong> for his daughters. I think that is just awesome and not a lot of fathers around the world would (dare to) agree with him.<\/p>\n

\"Winding
Winding road to the cabin<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"At
At the cabin with Jim, Maddy and Faith<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Thankful for this great experience and their hospitality I set off towards Chicken<\/strong> the next day. Chicken is a mining town with only 7 registered citizens (I wonder how citizens of Chicken are called?!).<\/p>\n

From Chicken to the border, 75km up the road, there was \u2018nothing\u2019 I was told. The full road from Tok to Dawson city was a collection of ups and downs and ups and downs with a total of 4500 meters to climb over a length of 300km. I wouldn\u2019t call that \u2018nothing\u2019\u2026<\/p>\n

\"OLYMPUS<\/p>\n

\"OLYMPUS<\/p>\n

I arrived at the border a little after 18:00, I was surprised not having to show my passport to the American border guards. Nobody checked if I didn\u2019t overstay my visa or if I hadn\u2019t become a \u2018wanted woman\u2019 in the meantime. So much hassle to go through to enter the country and I don\u2019t even get a stamp on departure!\u00a0The Canadian border guard welcomed me with a smile and wasn\u2019t keen enough to detect my little lie \u2018No, I don\u2019t carry any bear spray\u2019. COME ON! That spray cost me $45 and I guess I still have most of the bears coming up! Not even mentioning possible scary men! \u2018I\u2019m gonna hold on to my bear spray all the way down to Argentina!\u2019<\/em> is what I\u2019m thinking.<\/p>\n

A few kilometers after the border I pitched my tent, on the \u2018Top of the World\u2019. What a view! Yellow, orange, red and bits of green and brown as far as my eyes could see. The border crossing closes from 9pm to 8am and with the first bits of civilization in both Alaska and Canada about 100km away from me it made a beautiful quiet and dark night with just me and the wild. The realization that I was really leaving Alaska behind hit me for a moment. Even though I\u2019d gone through some love-hate issues with the state, it impressed me deeply. Sometimes I wanted to leave, now I was \u2018homesick\u2019 already. It\u2019s a fine fine line.. For the first time I listened to some music from my laptop while camping in the wilderness (a strange but nice combination) and watched how the sunset colored the clouds pink and red.<\/p>\n

\"Camping
Camping at the Top of the World<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\"OLYMPUS<\/p>\n

\"OLYMPUS<\/p>\n

\"OLYMPUS<\/p>\n

The next morning, I was aiming for Dawson City<\/strong>, 100km up and down the road. A lot, but doable. One day earlier than planned I raced down the 18km long descent into Dawson City. THE miningtown of the north. A touristic attraction but still authentic. It looks like a movie set but at the same time you can feel that there\u2019s a community living here and there are households and real lives going on behind the pretty colorful facades.<\/p>\n

I couldn\u2019t reach my Warmshowershost and while I was just hanging out at the Tourist Information an older couple invited me for dinner at \u2018Klondike Kate\u2019. The Tourist Information attendant gave me a coin for the showers at a ridiculously expensive campsite (was I smelly?). And after a great meal and a short but hot shower I felt reborn. Now all I needed was a place for the night\u2026<\/p>\n

\"OLYMPUS<\/p>\n

The \u2018campsites\u2019 in Dawson City turned out to be some kind of \u2018RV-dumps\u2019. Cheerless gravel areas with few RV\u2019s parked. I decided to ride out of town and found a nice little spot for my tent at Bonanza creek.<\/p>\n

The next day I reached my host. A man who runs a mining operation and organizes tours and accommodation. He let me stay in one of the cabins.<\/p>\n

So, CANADA!<\/strong><\/p>\n

A new adventure. A new country the lays spread out at my wheels. I decided to resist the temptation to ride up the Dempster highway in the north. No more \u2018detours\u2019. I\u2019m heading south! Night frost is here already, the trees are changing colors fast and will soon let go of their leaves, the first snow will soon fall. South!<\/p>\n

Trying to stay ahead of winter and keeping up with fall.<\/p>\n

Off to Whitehorse, off to Jasper and the Icefield Parkway.\u2028Off to new adventures!<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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